In questo momento Mattia Buffoli non sa che sto scrivendo di lui. Probabilmente sta dormendo o sta facendo qualcosa di segretamente fantastico che poche persone potrebbero capire ed avere care nelle loro teste.

Forse il suo coinquilino russa troppo forte. Mattia Buffoli non lo conosco neanche troppo bene ma è una di quelle persone che riescono a trasmetterti quello che sono con un cenno della testa, appena timido e remissivo, perché, appunto, non ti conoscono bene. Le sue foto sono lui, sono autentiche e sono così vaghe che riposano nel tempo, in una frazione che solo lui ha visto. Non so perché nessuno non gli organizzi una mostra ma so di sicuro che appena leggerà questo articolo arrossirà. Altro che foto alle feste fashion, fuorisalone, e di gente che vuole a tutti costi essere fotografata, Mattia ti riporta a quel tempo in cui non c’era photoshop in cui non dovevi settare i suoni per ogni funzione del tuo telefono, a quando non usavi la parola “settare”. Mattia dovrebbe invitarci tutti, uno per uno, a casa sua e mostrarci le sue foto stampate e dovremmo passarcele di mano con cura, sennò poi rimangono le impronte.

guardale QUI e QUI.

Mi presento, anzi no. Oggi TSTT ricomincia a scrivere, un po’ più internazionale, qualche nuovo amico, ci pensa G a fare le presentazioni. Due cose su di me 1) non so scrivere, parlo italiano si e no 20 minuti alla settimana con i miei vecchi su skype 2) ho 23 anni, non so un cazzo della vita, degli anni 80, di quanto eravate fighi con i vostri film e le vostre musicassete, non ho commenti interessanti sulla tua ultima band che hai trovato sul tumblr della tua amica che vive a new york.

Queste zie parlano di tumblr e di satana e vanno su MTV e di quante troie si scopano grazie alle copertine sui giornali di musica. Odd Future Wolfgang Tyler the creator kill ‘em all.

Di musica ne so poco e della musica ne ho fatto il mio lavoro, penso che a coachella qualcuno avesse bisogno di qualcuno incazzato sul palco. Non ho idea di cosa fosse ai tempi dell’old school, ma se ho bisogno di qualcosa falso-autentico, attacco spotify e ascolto la wolf gang in repeat. Lil-Jon, fottiti tu e Miami. Kill’em all.

Il video non è consigliato a quelli che vomitano dopo 3 shots. Wolfgang Tumblr – Oddfuture

Ommioddio, sono in un paese straniero e non ho avuto modo di usare internet per una settimana. E’ ovviamente una cosa imbrazzante ammetterlo ma non mi sono mai sentito così solo. Come facevo a sapere se il prez aveva combinato altri pasticciacci merulani/meroloni? Come facevo a sapere se il disco di Kanye + Jay z sarebbe uscito?

Più sconfitto di tutti i Rocky messi insieme ho trovato una connessione e mi sono andato a vedere l’unica cosa che valeva davvero la pena di vedere: il sito di questo tizio che mi ha fatto lacrimare del ridere. Non so chi sia o da dove venga o se le immagini siano create da lui o riciclate ed è a questo punto che ho realizzato la magia di internet è potersene fregare alla grande.

Un consiglio: non guardate il sito se siete al lavoro, potreste sputare sullo schermo o in faccia al vostro capo una risata.

Questa è la storia di un mio amico che doveva andare ad un matrimonio ma non sapeva bene cosa regalare agli sposi.

Una macchina del caffè ?

100 Euro nella lista nozze ?

Un set di pentole ?

Un forno a microonde ?

Uno di quei pacchetti benessere/sport/relax che ti propinano vicino alle casse di fnac ?

Un vestitino di winnie the pooh per il bambino che tanto arriverà nei prossimi mesi ?

Nono, troppo semplici e banali queste cose, ci voleva qualcosa di meglio.

E gli è venuto in mente di regalare una macchina foto.

Ma dato che comprare una macchina foto e regalarla è troppo semplice, l’ha costruita da zero.

DA ZERO. PEZZO PER PEZZO. REGOLAZIONE PER REGOLAZIONE.

Guardate come ha fatto e rimaneteci di stucco.

I was always fascinated by cameras like Mamiya Press 23, Graflex XL or Hasselblad Flexbody, under the hood they are pretty simple: just a lens, a shutter, a body and a film magazine!
So the idea to try to build a medium format film camera was in my mind from long time and finally I’ve got the necessary motivation when I’ve had to made a present for a couple of friends that just married.
Since this was the very first time I wished to make it cheapest possible with most of the components sourced from scrap parts or pieces laying around. I’ve bought on ebay the lens, the shutter cable and the holder slide.

Cost

How much can cost build a medium format camera? It depends, on design and on choice of materials.
If you want to keep the budget at lowest and have the right spare camera parts, some luck, a lot of time, and don’t need to obtain a high-end camera you can build it with almost no money, on the opposite striving for perfection and some nifty gears could made spent you 1500-2000 euro of budget. For example Sinar lenses and accessories are definitely in the latter case.

Here’s the phases construction broken down step by step:

Film format

I appreciate the 6×6, this was my choice also because the kiev magazines are pretty cheap and although square format at first seems not to comfy it has some advantages…for example in composition you don’t have to choose if the subject would be better served by a horizontal or vertical image.

Just a clarification about the format:
medium formats like 6×6, 6×7, 6×8, 6×9, 6×12, and 6×17 are intended as a centimeter scale instead most of the large formats like 4×5, 5×7, 8×10 have inches scale
So for example a 6×6 is six centimeters wide (or 2 and 1/4 inches), and 4×5 inches is 9×12 cm

Lens

The Tominon in all his mighty (yeah I must clean it a bit)

At first my idea was to pick a wide angles lens like the Super-angulons, those Schneiders optics are still kicking today and most models have a 100° coverage; with a wide angle like that you don’t have to think too much about focus distance and with a little self-training you can just go by guessing in most of the situations.
Unluckily I’ve not had the time to find one at a good price so I’ve moved for the first good lens with a Copal (or similar) shutter and a mounting ring of the right size at a reasonable price.
It happened to find a Tominon 105mm lens for cheap along the Copal Polaroid self-cocking shutters (1 to 1/125 shutter). This type of lens are used for most as enlarging lens in lab (most probably that one was removed from a Polaroid copy camera) and work well also for macro or close-up shots. It’s designed for 4×5 format so there is plenty room for movements.

Finder

Viewfinder and rangefinder get along together

It’s an universal Leica Vidom produced from 1933-1939, it cover from 35mm to 135mm and was an accessory that came along some Leica III models. On top of it there is an old Smena external rangefinder (used mainly on “Smena-8M” cameras)
Distances in meter on the scale are: 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.5, 1.7, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 8, 15, and “infinity”.
I’m not very happy with the viewfinder: it has a very nice looking but is not very great to use…for first the image is mirrored and secondly the more you zoom the more the frame will shrinks, this means that at 135mm you must look throught a little rectangular cranny.

Body

Front view – the body seems odd and uneven but is just distorted by the lens used for the shot

The body is made almost entirely from solid wood (olive and oak), pretty easy to work and give a sort of pretty fallout look. Although It would have been nice to have a CNC machine and mill the body from an alu block…

Film magazine

Just bold…

One of the cheapest 6×6 back you can find around are the ones for Kiev 88 – Salyut camera (old models were called Salyut): a Russian knockoff of the Hasselblad 1000… pretty sturdy and a good bargain also as new.
Another feasible back is the Hasselblad 12, (just don’t take the new A12 models, you can’t manually rewind the roll!)
The locking mechanism is pretty simple and I’ve managed to replicate the flanges/dents with and aluminium L profile and some file work.

Exposure

Well maybe at this point you have noticed it: there’s no exposure system.
In short you adjust time and aperture just by guessing…hard? Well if on a digital camera you never gone far over the A/V mode you can feel a bit lost …
I never used automatic exposure mode, I’ve an old trusty Nikon D100 that I’ve personally repaired and with all old Non-CPU lens the camera built-in exposure meter does not even work so I constantly use my eyes to estimate the light …it’s fun and put your mind in a condition to understand instantly the light in the environment you are shooting and the light on your subject.
Anyway is not rocket science and there are some methods that could come in help, for example you can search the “Sunny f/16 Rule” or use an exposure chart like that one:

It could be userful to print this chart and bring it with you as a reminder

Check also the chart on the Fred Parker site , there’s a good and exhaustive article explaining all meaning behind light exposure and much more.
In very difficult light conditions you can use an external light meter or if you are enough geeky and have a smartphone with Android or an iphone there are enough applications (just search for “light meter” or “exposure” on the app market ) that works well for the purpose.
Automatism are bad for you brain for example when I try to use it I feel weird, goofy, and can’t shoot right…trust me if you are serious about it after a few rolls of film your eyes soon gets used to the light levels you’re shooting and you won’t miss the metering.

Focusing

This could take a whole discussion apart, in brief the are some more or less cheap way ( see here ) to have a focussing system, otherwise you can buy a good helicoid ring ( an example here )
In my opinion the best compromise between price and performance is to recycle a helical ring from a broken donor lens, I’ve taken mine from an old Meyer Gorlitz Domiplan 50mm f 2.8 , unfortunately it was not the best choice since the extension range it’s a bit short for a 105mm lens.

Construction

Work in progress…

Although started from scratch I hadn’t followed any specific plans for this work. I’ve taken inspiration from other homemade cameras on flickr and designed the camera in a way that does require just basic skill in woodworking and almost common tools.

This is a brief list of the most tools used:

A drill
a pair of handsaws (oh, i love japanese handsaw!)
clamps for wood
Various files
epoxy resin
glue for wood like Vinavil
a dremel
a smoothing tool plane
a sharp wood chisel
sandpaper – grit from 60 to 320
an orbital sander
a bench vise.

The only uncommon tool that I’ve used is a drill stand along with a cross table; they were pretty userful to mill with sufficient precision a groove in the body for fit the aluminum back lock and a recessed track for the dark slide handle.
Materials principally used are hardwood ( oak and olive ) , aluminium, bolts&nuts, used and recycled parts, linseed oil as natural wood finish.
I’m also pretty sure that the photos will suffer about some parallax plane focussing but i didn’t had the tools and time to made a perfectly planar surface.
After decided what dimension the camera should have I’ve started to cut two square pieces (120x120mm) from a plank of oak thick about 25mm and three square pieces (6x6cm) always of oak thick about 5mm.

The more precision you get here the less work you have to do after.

After little sanding with 120 grit paper I’ve glued with Vinavil and clamped together the parts until the glue dried. Without a cnc or some precision machinery is pretty difficult to make parts perfectly even so is mandatory to check for irregular surface …

The glued pieces, some smoothing work is needed.

Mine were a little unaligned so I’ve used the plane and sanded again little to get a good flat surface.
So the bigger block is the camera body and the smallest one act as a spacer to obtain the right focal length for the lens.

The block after first sanding passage

Next step was made the necessary holes and grooves on the body: the lens hole was made with a 45mm hole cutter for drill. During the cut keep the body firmly on the cross table is necessary to obtain a decent precision.

It’s drill time.

The other holes served as a housing for some nice brass drive-in nuts that I’ve permanently fixed with a bit of epoxy. The drive-in nuts allow to use any kind of metric bolts and obtain a tight and strong coupling of the parts.
On the back side of the body I’ve traced a square of 60x60mm with center on the lens hole (…well is better if you trace it before making the hole and after just check if it’s center) and started to carve the wood with a chisel…during this process the body was tightened on the workbench with some clamps.
Again I didn’t made any precision measurement, only checked that the groove was large enough for not block the projection of the lens.

Wood carving chip by chip..

Once all major works on the two wood bodies were done I’ve started with the final sanding. In order to have a sufficent smooth surface and remove all visible scratches and defects I preferred to sand by hand with a flat block and 240 grid sandpaper.
To keep the film magazine tight in place some kind of locker is needed, by looking the original Kiew mounts I’ve made a similar system with two aluminium mounts.

The two aluminium mounts…needs to file away the burrs and make some drills.

The slide-in piece is fixed with the drive-in nuts and bolts, instead the toothed piece was glued oh the groove with the epoxy.

The position of the aluminium teeth is critical, just a 1mm higher and the magazine will receive in some light, 1mm lower and it will be hard to close. . I’ve made this piece about 3 times before obtain something good…really a pain in the ass.

Trying to figure what’s the best position to place the mount. 1#

Trying to figurewhat’s the best position to place the mount. 2#

Lock system ready to care of the film magazine.

Now, the magazine itself has a groove along the borders that receive an equal protrusion present on the body in order to have a sort of light trap and prevent leaks. It’s nice but I’ve founded a little bit difficult reproduce it. Fallen back to use gaskets.
The aluminium shoe slide (founded on ebay for cheap) is fixed on the body top with a single m6 hex screw, so is possible to made some (sort of) yaw axis adjustment and luckily the VIDOM viewfinder have the possibility to pitching a bit.

The shoe has a screw to quickly mount-dismount the finder.

Grip

the grip is made from an olive branch, this piece took me some time to finish because it was mainly manual hardwork…started by holding up the branch on the bench vise and used the handsaw to get a raw shape then refined with a file for wood and 120 grit sandpaper.

The grip start to take form…

Seem to fit nicely on my hand

The idea was to give at the top of the grip a shape userful as a safe guards for the shutter cable switch, unfortunately the switch is a bit too long but still protect from pressing it deep down.
The shutter cable have a diameter of 5.5mm (actually just the screw tip) and I’ve managed to find a 5.7mm drill bit long enough to make the hole side to side with on shot.
Two hex head bolts partially threaded (8mm diameter and 80mm long) keep the body and the handlegrip tight together. I’ve had just to splay a bit the handlegrip side surface to partially fit the bolt heads into the wood.
I’ve decided not to glue the shutter cable release to the grip because the button rod is so long that can be a hassle when you pack the camera in a bag. Instead it just fit tight in the grip hole and when needed you can pull it out about 10 centimeter and place aside in a safer position.

A detail of the grip completed and cured

At that point an inspection for light leak is almost necessary and I can only suggest to always have a good selection of foam and neoprene sheets of different thickness, better if there are also the self-adhesive ones.
As you spot where the light leak come you can choose what sheet is more appropriate to use and cut it in order to obtain a seal of the right shape and size.
In my case I’ve noticed there were some light leaks between film back-body and lens-aluminium plate: since on the back there is a groove along the border I’ve cutted 4 stripes of 1.5mm thick self-adhesive neoprene to fit the groove. Instead the gap between the plate and the lens was filled with a somewhat black paste (is that one used to seal the engine halves, is very elastic and durable, and don’t stick too much).

Having a good selection of neoprene and foam seals would be a good way to go. The first one from left is 1.5mm thick.

As said before the magazine needed something to block light leaks. I’ve placed a custom cutted gasket into his original groove…it work and let’s hope it last for long.

The magazine just sealed

To prevent other unwanted light reflection is a good habit to paint black the inner camera surface: china ink seems work well, is easy to apply on wood and is just pitch black!

Pitch black surfaces are good for your film.

When I’ve had the finder in my hands a dreadful thought appeared on my mind: the frame is rectangular and the camera takes square photo!!! Arrgh!
Since i had no time to search for another finder the only solution was to open and try to hack it.

Never thought to see a so cheap zoom framing into that finder, really.

Well maybe is not so practical but looks kinda cool…

The focussing system is the part that I’m less happy but I can live with it. The helical ring was taken out from a 50mm Domiplan lens. For some coincidence the front ring is slight less large that the shutter flange and fit perfectly in place without any extra work.
I’ve glued those the two pieces together not for laziness but because the flange is simply screwed on the shutter, so you can take off shutter and lens any time.
The biggest problem is that the helical ring have not so much range, this means that the focus range is somewhat limited and after some test I’ve discovered that I can’t focus under about 1.7-2 meter…not the best solution but I guess is ok for now.

Helical mount ready to be calibrated.

The helical come from a different focal length lens and the original distance scale is totally wrong so must be done a new one (whops I’ve forgotten to take a close-up of the new scale).
The fact that can’t focus under 1.7meter is a pity because the Tominon works pretty good with close-up shots, but also the more you get close the more is difficult set the right focus with only the rangefinder as help.

For simplicity I’ve made the marks following the scale on the external rangefinder, so started with 1.7mt , next 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 8, 15 and at last “infinity” .
It ended that the infinity mark is not exactly where the helical thread ends on the barrel, anyway is very close.
The entire process is a little boring and can be tricky if you can’t visually judge correctly the focus.
This means to:
put the camera on a tripod
set the rangefinder at the desired distance
set the subject at the same distance
double check the effective distance with a tape measure (well I don’t fully trust the rangefinder, specially on short distance)
turn the helical ring an try to get the best focus (and that’s hard)
mark the distance on the scale
go on for the next distance on the rangefinder…
The hellish step was to check the ‘perfect’ focus by looking on the projected image from the lens, I’ve started first test simply putting a piece of paper in place of the film but it turned very hard to spot the focus (no so much detail).
I’ve ended to use a ground glass from a dismantled Kiev 88, it worked pretty good but keep in mind that also the subject must be on high-contrast, I’ve obtained a decent result just by printing a series of black stripes of different dimensions on a A3 paper.

A first lens projection with a piece of paper in place of the film.

Just recently some folks on the flickr board suggested me other cheapest alternative, I will try for sure on my next camera project!

Boring part…

Curing: the final look was given using only linseed oil. To preserve the color and structure of the wood a sort of treatment is mandatory; I wanted to avoid any type of chemical products so seems right to me to use something completely natural.
For obtain a good result I’ve coated the body about four times (is best to wait 24 hours between each coating), since the oil hardly evaporate and tend to crystallize it provide to fill the pores of the wood and good protection also for outdoor use. Last but not least it give a good smell (well maybe somewhat a little fishy, but nice!)
This was the last step needed to complete the camera, time to try it!

First tests

I’ve done a roll for testing before giving the camera it to my friends. This was also my first 120mm roll and (how strange!) I’ve almost screwed it by thinking that a rewind would needed..do not! When you finished the 12 frames just keep to turn the knob, the film will wind on the second roll ready to be pulled out.

For a more detailed description on how to load/unload the film look here, there are also a lot of userful resource about the kiev camera.

First film done!

Although only 5-6 of 12 frames are exposed somewhat correctly there are some nice result, I want to put them into a little article along the construction phase (that I’ve just finished) but since I’ve used a color film I’ve some difficult to scan the negatives without a scanner (trying to directly shot the negatives with a sort of homemade light box and my nikon but is not easy remove the color film dominant).
A co-worker and friend of mine just got an Epson v500, so hope to asking him to try some scans and post soon the photos he just done for me a pair of scans, here’s what seems to be one of the better exposed frame:

Dimension

Someone asked me for some camera parts and body dimension so here we go:

Wooden body side = 120mm
Wooden body thickness = 44mm
Wooden body square length side = 60,2mm
Wooden body hole diameter for the lens = 45mm
Wooden spacer side = 75mm
Aluminium flange thickness = 1mm
Body to grip distance = 23mm
Grip bolt to bolt distance = 75mm
Grip bolt diameter = 8mm
Grip shutter cable hole diameter= 5,5mm
screw distance little body 53mm
Maximum helicoidal range = 7,7mm
Aluminium back holder (braces one) TxHxW = 1×9,5×82 mm – Single brace HxW = 1×5,9×5,5 mm – groove start to 2.9mm
Aluminium back holder (lateral one) TxHxW = 3×11,5×69 mm – bolt to bolt distance= 53mm – small aluminium flap TxHxW = 1,4×4,3×4 mm
Body groove depth for the back holder = 2,5mm

Complains

Of course there are a number of little issues or annoyances that I want to get rid off in the next camera:

limited focussing distance: I wish to have a focus distance to 60-70cm for close-up…also i’m not pretty sure that it will focus to infinity @ f/4.5
focussing back and forth is a bit annoying because you turn around also the shutter cable: the helicoidal ring should be installed over the lens and keep the copal shutter fixed.
dimension: store and bring along that camera is not very comfortable…you must disengage the cable from the shutter (just bend or break it) and dismount view and range finder (mounted take a lot of space)
ease of use: well for sure this isn’t a camera for “carpe diem” shots! You can take up to 1min to check distance, frame, focussing, light, ect, and still be not sure about shooting eheheh…

Apart those flaws I’m enough satisfied with the overall result and especially my friends seem to have big fun trying to get a grip on it!
This project started as a simple gift idea then turned into something far more complex along with a compulsive pre-occupation so I’m glad to come out alive…but now I feel the urge to have one for myself, so it’s time to think about a new medium format homemade camera

If you have any questions tweet me here.

Il diario di Terry Richardson è pieno di cose pazzesche. Le guardi e pensi wow, a me non accadranno mai…

E’ per questo che (solo dopo esservi registrati a tumblr) potete cliccare ”follow” e decidere di rimanere costantemente aggiornati con i suoi uploads sulle sue avventure, sulle celebs che incontra costantemente e sulle tish un po’ volgari da bancarella per cui, assieme alle scritte in generale, secondo me ha una grande passione.

Carica mille foto al giorno, ce n’è per tutti!

(qui sotto con Heidi Slimane, Mary Kate Olsen, Chloe Sevigny e Dio)

Un po’ di settimane fa Tiga ha twitterato una cosa che faceva piu’ o meno cosi’: “Ancient volcano = dino extinction. Modern volcano = dj extinction.” Battuta ad effetto e voli fermi in tutta Europa, dj autoctoni in grande spolvero e ale’. L’uomo si dimentica troppo spesso di essere ospite sulla terra quindi e’ giusto che lei glielo ricordi, cosi’ magari si da’ una calmata in tempo reale. Qui sotto un po’ di foto tipo apocalypse sigur ros 2010 e un video che sembra disegnato a matita.

Maciej Dakowicz è un fotografo polacco che per quattro anni ha documentato la vita notturna del weekend in St.Mary street, a Cardiff, Wales.

“Everything takes place in public – from drinking, fighting, kissing to crying and sleeping.” dice lui.

Dejavu? Anyone?

nei momenti di pausa tra le cose che faccio, sia che mi piacciano o no, compilo delle piccole liste di cose che vorrei fare (che poi mi porteranno a fare delle altre liste, ovvio) e tra queste ce n’è una lunghissima che è: le cose che voglio fare prima di morire.

secondo questa lista, se non dormissi MAI -e sono sulla buona strada per questa rilevante opzione- dovrei vivere per almeno otto mila anni. forse riuscirei a veder morire anche andreotti.

tra le cose che assolutamente voglio fare è andare in america e conoscere tutte queste ragazze che, senza davvero darlo a vedere perchè sarebbe poco indicato, hanno un alone di ragazza da film supertenera con un po di problemi.

guardate le foto di megan e guardate le sue amiche/amici (dipende da che parte pendete). sono i compagni delle superiori e università che ho sempre desiderato invece non avevo che dei semi tamarri e delle tipe cesse coi pantaloni a zampa e i dr.martens un po slacciati. ma che cazzo, forse avevano confuso il grunge (in ritardo) con la fiera della sciatteria anti pisello.

rivoglio i miei 19 anni ma in un’altro stato sennò teneteveli che poi li passo a prendere.

tempo fa vi abbiamo detto come le fanzine siano il nuovo trend, anzi ve lo abbiamo già detto un bel po di tempo fa quindi forse adesso stanno già diventando fuori moda o addirittura ritornando, ho perso il filo.

questa serie che vi faccio vedere qui però è così bella che secondo me chi la ha realizzata se ne frega di tutto e di tutti e lo fa solo per dimostrare agli altri come le cose belle vanno fatte.

dite alla mamma che va tutto bene non solo è un titolo fantastico ma racchiude un concept e un sentimento che pur essendo vicino ad ognuno di noi non suona come trito e ritrito ed è per questo che se la crisi vi ha lasciato con un po di soldi e una libreria dovreste comprarlo subito!

ora: tutti i gruppi anni ’90 si riformano. va bene, ok. addirittura ho pensato di formare un gruppo dal nulla e di dire che siamo una reunion di un gruppo super indie di 15 anni fa e che abbiamo dato il cinque a cobain e ai fugazi, giusto per creare hype e confusione.

stupidaggini a parte da un lato mi chiedo perché tutti questi gruppi si riuniscano ma non per fare a loro dei conti in tasca (leggi: magari devono pagarsi le bollette e non sanno come fare) ma per capire se questa nostalgia, che man mano che ci muoviamo nella storia diventa temporalmente pù ristretta verso il passato più vicino a noi, è dovuta alla grande quantità di band che non hanno davvero nulla da dire. ce ne sono un sacco, fermatevi un attimo a pensare. le pompano tutti ma poi ti dici: “si vabbé però…” e alla fine ti chiedi perché tu non ti stia ascoltando per esempio i JAWBOX. e molti di voi manco sapevano chi erano finché pitchfork non ha pompato la loro reunion in onore della ristampa del loro capolavoro. se non li conoscete forse non conoscete manco i fugazi o i neutral milk hotel e altri gruppi che mi stupsco non conosciate visto che avete internet e state leggendo qui. cazzo! io e molti come me dovevamo farci copiare le cassette dagli amici negli stati uniti o chissadove, sbattetevi un po di più! e soprattutto guardatevi e scaricatevi i JAWBOX. sono di washington e hanno fatto cose che il vostro gruppo preferito di adesso sta copiando.

ho trovato la foto del cantante j.robbins all’interno di un flickr davvero interessante, si chiama neverending polaroid. sono tutti ritratti con la polaroid del precedente soggetto fotografato in mano. figo!

scarica il disco QUI

guarda i video QUI

e basta sono stanco di fare il saccente scuoto la testa a tempo di musica e faccio airguitar.